Textile Yarn Numbering System - What is Thread Count

Textile Yarn Numbering System (What Is Thread Count?)

The Count of yarn is a numerical expression of size of yarn which defines its fineness. As fineness of yarn is not possible to measure by any of the testing instrument. Thus yarn numbering system helps us to identity correct yarn for our end product.

Thread count is usually referred with a number like 50s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 160s, etc. which can go up to 200s. You would be thinking that 80s = 80 threads per inch, but that’s not correct (and a common misconception in the industry). Instead, these numbers refer to the yarn size. 80s means there are 80 hanks (1 hank = 840 yards) of yarn weighing in one pound.

Let’s see how Thread count refers to the size of the yarn:

Direct System (Mass/Unit Length):

In direct yarn numbering system, the count of yarn is the number of units of weight per unit length of yarn that is the mass per unit length of yarn.

Tex = (Weight (gm) / Length (m)) × 1000

In Direct Number System, Higher the count, the resulting fabric is generally heavier and thick. Thus 20 Tex thread count yarn is courser than 10 Tex, and so on.

Similarly, lower the count, the finer and smooth it is. Thus 30 Tex thread count yarn is finer and smoother than a 50 Tex yarn and so on.

Numbering System	Unit of Length (L)	Unit of Weight (W)
Tex System (Tex)	1000 meters	No. of grams
Denier (D)	9000 meters	No. of grams
Decitex (dtex)	10,000 meters	No. of grams
Jute Count	14,400 yards	No. of pounds
Grex Count	10,000 meters	No. of grams
Linen Count	14,400 yards	No. of pounds

Indirect System (Length/Mass Unit):

In direct yarn numbering system, the count of yarn is the number of units of length per unit weight of yarn that is the length per unit mass of yarn.

English Count (Ne) (British Count) = Length (Yd)/ (Weight (lb) × 840)

In Indirect Number System, Higher the count, the resulting fabric is generally finer, smoother and more expensive. Thus 200s thread count yarn is finer and smoother than 180s, which is finer and more expensive than 140s and 120s and so on.

Similarly, lower the count, the heavier and coarser it is. Thus 40s thread count yarn is coarser and heavier than a 60s yarn and so on.

Numbering System	Unit of Length (L)	Unit of Weight (W)
English Cotton Count (Ne)	840 yards	1 pound (lb)
Metric Count (Nm)	1000 meters (1Km)	1 Kg
Woolen Count (YSM)	256 yards	1 pound (lb)
Worsted Count (Nek)	1 pound (lb)	No. of grams
Linen Count	300 yards	1 pound (lb)
French Cotton Count	1000 meters	500 grams

Single Ply, Two-Ply and Three-Ply

Ply is how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Fabrics can either be two-ply or single ply. Two-ply means that two yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. (Note that this is not at all like two-ply toilet paper!). Two-ply fabrics are generally superior to single-ply fabrics.

120s to 140s are regarded as very premium fabrics having a smooth finish and being light-weight. 2-ply 80s and 2-ply 100s are best suited for professionals and for office wear as fabrics in these counts offer the most wrinkle resistance and crisp standing. Single 70s are usually satin weave counts which are in a construction that falls well. These are many times used for women garments as they drape very well. 50s and 60s are used for a major portion of the everyday formal and casual shirts. 40s counts are usually only used for garments and bulk shirts supply.

Thread count is not only one aspect while selecting fabrics. The weave, ply and construction amongst other factors play an important role in the overall fabric quality.

For example, 120’s thread count means that two 60’s yarns are twisted together. Generally this fabric will be more durable than a 60’s single ply, but it won’t necessarily be smoother. 140’s thread counts are typically two 70’s yarns twisted together. And so on and so forth.